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Polymer clay frustration
#57532 - 10/07/09 05:06 PM
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I have been trying to work with Polmer clay for a long time. I bought the clay, molds, books all at Michaels. My frustration is all the projects I designed some from molds others from patterns. Every single project failed...everything broke. I followed the instructions to the "T" but they still broke. I tried making angels from a people mold and the arms, legs and wings broke off. These items are not flimzy they are as thick as directed. I was trying to make broches. It breaks my heart that I keep on failing. I want to make beautiful angel broches and fridge magnets however; it's just not working. Can somebody please help me?
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That sure sounds discouraging. I am prob not the person to be answering this but I am wondering if it had anything do do with the temp of your oven. Are you following the temps suggested on the clay? Is your oven working correctly? Also what type of clay are you using? I tried the cheap clay(no names mentioned) but didnt have as good success as with the Premo. Also could you be conditioning it enough? Those are just a couple of things that entered my mind. I have only made a couple of sets of ear rings but they came out fairly decent except for the ones where I used the cheap clay. Good luck to you finding your problem.
Arlene
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Also, make sure you are baking at the correct temperature for the proper amount of time. The baking times are per 1/4 inch thickness of your piece. It sounds like you aren't baking your pieces long enough (or at the correct temperature) for them to completely cure. The thicker the piece, the longer it needs to bake.
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Thank you folks for the suggestions. I'm using an expensive polymer clay. My oven is pretty new and the temp is perfect. Like I said I follow the directions to the "T". I've done everything both of you have suggested...Thank you
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Bee-chan
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Officially A Newbie
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Reged: 08/06/04
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Posts: 5
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This isn't something that Michaels carries ( though I REALLY wish they did Xx;;; ) that I think you might be interested in using in place of a polymer clay like Primo or Fimo or Sculpey, if you continue to have troubles using polymer clays.
It's called apoxie sculpt. It's NOT a polymer clay at all, it's an apoxie base, but you can sculpt and mold it just like you can a polymer clay. It also doesn't require ANY firing / baking, there is NO shrinkage whatsoever, and this stuff is so completely sturdy once it's fully set.
It's a two part compound, and it's an "air drying" material ( just meaning that you don't bake it ). Mix equal amounts of the two compound together for 2 minutes with your hands until the color is one solid color, then you have about an hour or two to work with your mixed apoxie sculpt ( I'd advise mixing small amounts during your first attempts ).
It can easily be drilled and sanded after fully set as well.
I use it myself for creating sculptures and custom dolls, but you can use it for jewelry, figurines, statues, so many uses. You can paint it, change it's color just by adding a little acrylic paint to the mix, seal it safely, it's dishwasher safe, pretty much damage safe. Heck, I've dropped some of my sculpted pieces SEVERAL times, and occurred no damage. It's pretty difficult to damage something made out of apoxie sculpt.
And even better, this stuff will stay attached to whatever you attach it to permanently once it's set. It's not like a lot of other "doll" clays that don't stick to what you're trying to attach it to.
If you want the link to the store where I get it, let me know, as I don't know if we're allowed to post links to other online shops here.
But it would be GREAT for making your brooches and magnets!
Hint to Michaels: consider looking into this stuff and selling it in your shops! Apoxie sculpt is a FANTASTIC sculpting material! One of the strongest materials out there!
~~Bee
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Oh thank you very much Bee-chan. Now this sounds like something I could work with...fabulous. I can look it up in google. You have taken the clouds of frustration away. You're a real gem!
~Tina~
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Suzywoo2
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Officially A Newbie
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Reged: 06/12/09
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Posts: 4
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Just another suggestion for a product which, for some reason, most "local" type hobby stores don't carry -- It's "Kato Polyclay" by the well known polymer clay artist Donna Kato. It's not as toxic as the aforementioned basic apoxy(ie) "clay" and is not going to crack as easily as the less expensive polymer clays. Depending on where you purchase it from, it won't require as much conditioning either since it doesn't have the same issues with how long it's sat on store shelves, or whether stock gets rotated correctly. Also, if you have a decent Art store in your town, they might also carry it.
Edited by Michaels.com_Editor (10/19/09 07:12 AM)
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smpica
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Craft Authority
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Reged: 09/12/09
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Posts: 279
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Ohhhhhh.....
That's cool!
smpica
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PixxiStix
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Soon To Be An Expert
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Reged: 03/15/09
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Posts: 14
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The strength of the clay generally depends on two things:
1) the quality of the clay
2) proper baking times
1) If you're using Sculpey III or Fimo Soft, it's just not strong enough clay to withstand the test of time. It's great and inexpensive for praticing. Super Sculpey is stronger, but I'm not fond of the 'feel' of it.
To create something long lasting, I highly recommend Prosculpt clay.
Kato is super strong but so hard to condition. When I use Kato, I add a little bit of MixQuik to make it workable and increase the strength. MixQuik gives any clay strength, but it also makes the clay 'mushy' to work with, so use sparingly.
Fimo classic is nice but sometimes too translucent. I use it ALL the time as it's easy to find. I sometimes have to play with the colors to get rid of that translucency.... just adding a bit of white often does it.
Cernit is strong,when baked but seems a little too 'mushy' to sculpt with easily.
Premo is strong, but the colors are not very nice at all (if you are creating skin tones.) I often use Premo, but have a mixture of colors to get what I want (I generally sculpt in skin tones.)
2) Be sure to double check your baking temperature, especially if using an oven for polymer clay. These ovens sometimes don't heat the same all the way around the item. My preference for baking is to put my sculpture in a covered casserole dish and then bake in my home oven. I also cover the sculpture with a paper towel while baking to help prevent browning. The covered casserole dish prevents any sediments from contaminating your oven and provides protection from overheating.
And for anything that has appendages (arms, legs, wings, etc.) always use an armature. Without a proper base, even the best clay may break at the joints.
And I second the motion that Michaels should carry some of the high quality clays that are out there. There are lots of serious polymer clay artists around. That 'other' store is now carrying both Prosculpt and Cernit.
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